Difference between revisions of "Mo Fact Sheet"
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[color=#FFFF00]No reason it shouldn't work! I set the 10* minimum drilling angle to make sure the migrating PAP had to cross the pin to PAP line. Just a safety feature.[/color] | [color=#FFFF00]No reason it shouldn't work! I set the 10* minimum drilling angle to make sure the migrating PAP had to cross the pin to PAP line. Just a safety feature.[/color] | ||
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| + | *From: http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6766&view=unread#unread | ||
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| + | [color=#FFFF00]I try to make sure the PAP of the migrating axis goes past the pin to PSA line. This helps the ball to rev up more easily on the back end of the lane[/color] | ||
Revision as of 06:26, 15 October 2012
These are some quick facts posted by mo on various parts of the forum.
- For low tilt bowlers, on asyms., use pin to PAP distances of 2 3/4" to 4" to get the ball to change direction and read friction. Use 4" to 5" pin to PAP distances when you want to play straighter.
- For high tilt bowlers, don't use 3" to 4" pin to PAPs on asyms. unless there's lots of friction, or you're using a ton of surface with a big, strong balance hole. Use 4" to 5" pin to PAPs to read friction and 5" to 6" pin to PAPs to play straight. Another example of the need for accurate delivery specs.
- In reality, the coverstock, surface sanding, ball total diff., and pin to PAP distance control the length of the first transition. The layout and balance hole location, which affect the strength of the PSA affect the distance from the first transition to the second transition. That's basically the intermediate diff. of the drilled ball.
The smaller VAL angle increases both diffs., but it increases the intermediate diff. much more than it increases the total diff., thereby increasing the diff. ratio. The smaller diff. ratio causes the longer hook zone (slower transition).
Lowering the pin towards the midline lowers both diffs., but lowers the intermediate more than the total diff., thereby decreasing the diff. ratio.
60x20 to 60x50 is a big change. I usually make 10* changes. P4 balance holes change diffs. more than small angle changes. Try to get it a close as possible with the layout and, then, tweak it with the balance hole. That's the best system.
(For symmetrical balls): You're getting pretty good. Put the balance hole on the VAL 2" below the midline, if needed. Drill it 2 3/4" deep. As you make it bigger, it will pull the PSA towards it and reduce the drilling angle to get the ball to start up a little sooner. Also:
taken from: viewtopic.php?t=5781 (Again, for symmetrical balls)
"The P3 gradient line hole will make the ball reaction stronger because it will increase both diffs. The VAL balance hole will only affect the first transition by making it start up sooner as you make the hole bigger. This is because that hole will move the PSA closer to the VAL as you make it bigger."
For balance holes close to the thumb hole: The pitch of the balance hole plus the distance that the center of the hole is from the edge of the thumb assembly must equal 2 1/2" plus whatever lateral pitch toward the balance hole the thumb hole has. Voila!
When the fingers are over 3" deep, don't go any deeper than 2 3/4" on the balance hole! The holes will meet, if you drill the balance hole too deep.
Staying behind the ball causes it to track high. Specifically, lack of axis tilt. Staying in the thumb too long causes it to track very close to the thumb. That's the real skinny.
Reply to a two handed bowler who was clipping the edge of his thumb hole: Stop chasing your tail! Let's adjust your finger pitches since you don't use your thumb. Drill your fingers 7/16" left by 1/4" forward on your middle finger and 7/16" right by 3/8" reverse on your ring finger, if you're right handed. Now measure your initial axis tilt and your PAP and post that info. We'll go from there. No more hand grenades at 20 paces! Use your normal thumb hole location.
- This quote taken from http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4557&p=36474#p36474 (see # 19)
ALL bowling balls with migrate along the RG contour of the Bowler's PAP. That's governed by the laws of the universe. Therefore, in order to create a unique migration path, you must create a unique RG contour for that ball. ALL balls have RG contours that use the low and high RG axis as the centroid for the RG contours. The higher the differential ratio, the more of the RG contours that are centered around the high RG axis, and the flatter those ellipses. That's just pure science and math.
- Don't worry about the cg. No problem. CGs don't mean a thing (to) ball motion as long as the ball has legal statics. .... NEVER put balance holes below the thumb. Too much of a chance of flaring over it.
*With Scotch Brite pads, it's all about the pressure you use with the pad. Burgundy results in 400 to 800 depending on the pressure. Grey results in 800 to 1500, again, depending on the pressure used.
Using scuff pads is not an exact science, but this is usually done during practice when the ball you want to use is not reacting enough. After the bowling is done, I always recommend using a spinner to return the ball to its' normal surface.
On a symmetrical ball drilled without a balance hole, the PSA (high RG) axis ends up very near the thumb. That puts the PAP near the intermediate RG axis on a vast majority of bowlers. Putting a balance hole in the PAP, which is near the int. RG axis, raises the RG of the int. RG axis. That decreases the int. diff., which makes the ball more symmetrical. That's what blueprint's excellent attachment shows. This explanation is for those who have math phobia.
Increasing the reverse in the middle finger actually helped to lower your tilt. Changing pitches changes the resulting ball motion. If you have to change the grip to accomodate issues like this, CHANGE THE SPAN FIRST TO RELIEVE THE PRESSURE, NOT THE PITCH, UNLESS YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE ROLL!
Sand 4 ways thoroughly with the first grit and sand two ways quickly with the second grit to do the "skip a grit" procedure.
Stretching spans tends to decrease tilt as does reverse in the fingers.
- Reply to a two handed bowler who was clipping the edge of his thumb hole, from http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4798
Stop chasing your tail! Let's adjust your finger pitches since you don't use your thumb. Drill your fingers 7/16" left by 1/4" forward on your middle finger and 7/16" right by 3/8" reverse on your ring finger, if you're right handed. Now measure your initial axis tilt and your PAP and post that info. We'll go from there. No more hand grenades at 20 paces! Use your normal thumb hole location.
Why is it that Mo doesn't recommend pin to pap distances of anything past 5.5 ?
Here's the real reason. The low RG axis can move when the ball is drilled. Using a pin to PAP distance of > 5.5" might result in the real low RG axis moving to a pin to PAP distance > 6 3/4". That may cause the ball to flare in bad places, causing the ball to flare over some drilling holes. NOT GOOD!
I'll try to make this plain. All balls are delivered with more axis rotation than tilt. Cannot be any other way. The laws of physics dictate that. The ball loses both rotation and tilt. The ball loses rotation faster than it loses tilt until tilt = rotation. That occurs at the second transition. FACT! During the roll phase (after the second transition) the ball loses rotation and tilt at the same rate until the ball hits the pins. That should keep your mind busy for a while.
Phasing is a function of porosity. Change in temperature causes it to absorb moisture. I light wipe with a little acetone, or a hair dryer will get rid of it. BALLS THAT PHASE EASILY HOOK!
This is what a vast majority of low tilt players don't understand. This is the magic. Fingers on the inside hemisphere of the ball at the top of the swing. Fingers move across the back of the ball until the hand reaches the "Nike Swoosh" position at the end of the follow thru. If the wrist is cupped at the top of the swing, it MUST be unloaded by the time of the release.
The reason we use a higher angle ratio for symmetrical balls is that drilled symmetrical balls lose tilt at a rate almost double the rate that asymmetrical balls lose tilt as both types of balls go down the lane.
You're very close. With a symmetrical ball, the PSA will be very near the thumb hole after drilling until the balance hole is drilled. We can change the mass properties of the drilled ball about 40% with layout and balance hole. With an asymmetrical ball, we can put the PSA whereever we want, and change the mass properties of the drilled ball by as much as 84% with layout and balance hole.
Conclusion: Syms are easier to drill and less versatile, making ball selection a premium. Asyms are more versatile and can provide stronger motion, but are dependent on the skills of the ball driller because they are more sensitive to the layout and balance hole.
The higher the diff. ratio, the more the ball displays gyroscopic properties because the PSA is stronger with a higher diff. ratio. In fact, that will help it retain tilt longer. I've been measuring it for years and syms lose tilt about twice as fast as stronger asyms.
The ability of the ball to retain tilt is related to the strength of its' PSA.
Blueprint has done a great service here. the difference is instantaneous direction as opposed to a fixed point rotation is measured against. Since the bulk of my research is from a fixed camera position, this difference can occur. Very educational!
Axis tilt is in relation to the horizon, so it's the same in either system. True "roll out" occurs when the ball has 0* instantaneous axis rotation and 0* of axis tilt. Using Blueprint's system of measuring axis rotation, a ball stops hooking when the instantaneous axis rotation is 0*, the second transition! the ball will have effective hitting power as long as it still has axis tilt. The ball stops hitting when axis tilt reaches 0*.
Good work, Blueprint!
Q. Just wondering if using p3 and p4 balance holes for low tilt players could cause the ball to lose tilt too quickly because of the increase in differential/flare, the same way as using max flare pin postions does. Should there be any concerns? Thanks.
A. Unless they're strongly speed dominant, be cautious with strong balance holes for low tilt bowlers.
- This one is from Elgavichon, from: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4992
The PSA on symmetrical cored ball without a balance hole ends up 6 3/4" from the low RG axis (primary pin), within 1/2" of the centerline of the grip.
- From: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4735
Your discussion of the movement explains why the "flare safe" zone, that I've recommended for two decades, goes from pin to PAP distances of 3/4" to 6 1/4". After seeing that the low RG axis can move as much as .6", I'm now going to reduce the flare safe pin to PAP distances to 3/4" to 6". I use 5 3/4" as my max. pin to PAP distance on the balls I personally layout. Balance holes near the high RG axis can be,and are, extremely effective, but balance hole near the intermediate, or low, RG axis can be dangerous because of the movement they can cause in ALL of the primary axis. I've do have some ancient engineering training, but have had to use empirical research to develop most of the techniques that I recommend and teach. Thanks for confirming that I didn't waste my time.
On a symmetrical ball drilled without a balance hole, the PSA (high RG) axis ends up very near the thumb. That puts the PAP near the intermediate RG axis on a vast majority of bowlers. Putting a balance hole in the PAP, which is near the int. RG axis, raises the RG of the int. RG axis. That decreases the int. diff., which makes the ball more symmetrical. That's what blueprint's excellent attachment shows. This explanation is for those who have math phobia.
The problem is simple!!!!!! This is a good time to address the cause, since you've asked. GOOD BALL REACTION OCCURS WHEN A BALL IS ROLLED IN ONE DIRECTION AND ROTATED IN ANOTHER! THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL AND THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION IS MEASURED IN TERMS OF AXIS TILT AND AXIS ROTATION! NOT ENOUGH OF EITHER AND THERE'S NOT ENOUGH BALL REACTION! As the ball travels down the lane the forces of gravity and friction reduces those angles. As those angles are reduced, the ball tracks higher. When it tracks too high, it hits holes.
Q. When laying out balls for specific conditions (long/heavy/short/dry) is it best to adjust ratios or sums (or a combination of both)? What range (in terms of ratio changes or sums) are generally useful, and how bowler specific is this? I guess I'm trying to get a handle on how far from the benchmark ratios/sums it is safe to venture when laying out balls for specific conditions.
A. You adjust the sum of the angles to move the transitions on the lane. You adjust the ratio to change the shape of the ball motion. You adjust the pin to PAP distance to mainly control the flare, which strongly adjusts the distance of the first transition.
Q. But my original question still remains: what is the reason why we keep ratios the same when looking to delay the first transition with a (close to) identical hook shape? Are the ratios themselves affecting the ball motion? Or are they a useful tool to manage more difficult to measure variables?
If the second, how does a ratio change affect the variables (perhaps the differentials)? Why is a change in drilling angle not preferable to a change in both angles?
A. Either one is useful. Changing the drilling angle delays the first transition and leaves the second transition the same distance from the new first transition. Changing both angle delays the first transition and increases the distance from the first transition to the second transition. This keeps the proportions the same (for example, 20ft first transition, 10ft hook zone becomes 25 ft first transition, 12.5' hook zone).
Sounds like your fit is close. My check, as always, is to place your fingers in the finger holes and, then, place your thumb ALL the way into the thumb hole by pressing down on the back of the knuckle above the thumb. If your finger nails press against the back of non Vacu inserts, your span is too long on either finger you feel the pressure on. Vacu grips, as traditionally done, allow too much movement for the fingers in the inserts IMO.
To allow for swelling, drill a hole 1/32" larger than the hole for the insert 1" deep (3/4" deep for short finger tips) at the cut span distance, then change the bit to the correct size for the insert and flush the bit against the front wall of the hole and drill it the desired depth. This will allow for the knuckle to swell and still keep the tip of the finger at the correct place at the bottom of the hole. I call these fake Vacu grips.
- Taken from context: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=431
For Asymmetrical balls:
For bowlers that come up the back, I prefer to use pin to PAP distances of 3" to 5". Closer to 3", if I want them to cover boards. Closer to 5", if i want them to play parallel.
- From: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5119
Your very accurate! You must use balance holes to get true smaller drilling angles in symmetrical balls. What you've proved is that symmetricals transition very similar unless you use a balance hole. Use balance holes on the VAL below the midline to decrease the drilling angle. Use balance holes on the Gradient Line to alter the diffs. of the drilled ball to change the intensity of the ball reaction.
"For bowlers who get around the ball, I prefer to use pin to PAP distances of 4" to 6". Closer to 4", if I want them to cover boards. Closer to 6", if i want them to play parallel."
Q. Is it possible to lay out a ball to lower or raise the track of a bowler?
A. Not consistently, or effectively. Changing the track is related to changing the release, not the layout. Sorry!
Drilled asyms maintain their PSAs pretty well. Symmetrical balls end up with the PSA near the thumb, no matter where the cg is. Drilling the balance hole on the Gradient Line changes the intensity of the ball reaction on all balls. Balance holes on the VAL, below the midline, is the only way to reduce the drilling angle on a symmetrical ball.
- From: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5222
Densities, my man. Inner cores average 2.6 g/cc, outer cores average 0.9 g/cc, coverstock is 1.10 g/cc.
Ancient bowling mythology often gets in the way of the true science of ball drilling. This is the US of A, so everyone has the right to be wrong. My detailed thoughts on layouts are expressed in the article by me on the Dual Angle Layout System in the Wiki. I don't think I can be any plainer.
As a rule of thumb the PSA on a drilled symmetrical ball without a balance hole will be 6 3/4" from the pin approximately 1/2" negative of the centerline. The balance hole will pull the PSA towards it
- Taken from viewtopic.php?t=5485 (see #8)
Timing is related to three things:
1) Grip pressure 2) The length of the hinge 3) The half period of the pendulum
"That's all Folks!"
Intermediate diffs of .008" or more, I treat as asyms. The Pursuits just make it, but without a balance hole, the PSA of the drilled ball will move more than half way towards the thumb hole. Check me, if you'd like.
- Dealing with a low axis tilt player. Taken from:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5548
Finger pitches are designed to increase your tilt. If you're not feeling the ring finger, the fit is doing the job. Ring finger dominant players are usually low tilt players. I need to see the original thread to comment on the thumb pitch because of the adjustments I made.
Also, from viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5542:
Hitting the ball with the ring finger will DECREASE tilt, not increase it.
On higher track (lower tilt) players, I try not to use pin to PAP distances in excess of 4 3/4" because it can pull the track up on the holes. It doesn't happen all the time, but it happens often enough for me to avoid it.
Note - in a subsequent post Mo says that applies to both symmetric and asymmetric balls.
If you describe it accurately, the transition is too short. That is altered by changing the mass properties of the drilled ball, thus, the balance hole is the answer. Surface changes the first transition.
I'm not versed enough on that math to comment, but have experience with abrasives and smoothing of surfaces. Regular surface scratches can create harmonics and tend to promote smooth, continuous motion. Irregular scratches tend to interrupt motion and can be used to increase the rate that balls transition. This is the basis for my "skip a grit" finishing technique used to promote earlier transitions and, therefore, help the ball read friction by helping to interrupt the skid phase. I keep recommending "true" grit sequences to promote smooth, continuous motion and "skip a grit" grit sequences to encourage the ball to transition faster.
Q. What layout does everyone use for the THS when they get real wet/dry ?
A. Use a larger VAL angle than normal and a longer pin to PAP distance than your benchmark layout.
Speed, or rev dominance, affects the sum of the angles and the pin to PAP distance. Tilt and rotation affect the ratios.
- By Kelly Tehuna, confirmed by Mo.
From: http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5447
This bowler has high axis rotation, which means we need to get the ball to roll forward as soon as we can. In asyms, longer pins promote more forward roll, while the opposite is true of syms. So, if we need the ball to roll forward off the end of the pattern, long pins will be the order of the day for asyms, and short pins for syms.
Here's how it works. When the lane transitions and you lose your reaction, make small physical adjustments (hand positions, ball height, eye distance) to regain the reaction. If that takes you out of your game, switch to the ball in your arsenal that gives you that good reaction with your "A" game. Not too bad! That just requires you to have a well developed, versatile physical game, an eye for ball reaction, and a well thought out, effective arsenal. Simple, heh?
From: http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5909
Q. I have a question regarding Gradient line balance holes on balls on which PSA ends 1/8" - 1/2" past VAL line (I drilled few balls with larger VAL angles and smaller horizontal pap coordinates where this happened). I wanted to know does everything stay the same in those situations (6-3/4" up the VAL from PSA-to-PAP and PAP-to-PSA line divided in 4 points)? Will this cause any issues with flaring over balance hole if I drill P4 holes?
[color=#FFBF00]In this situation, P1 remains the same. You are right about the guidelines for positioning the P4 hole. Balance holes should not be placed below the thumb or past the VAL to prevent the ball from possibly flaring over the balance hole. We use the "Double Thumb" position when the P4 hole position is below the thumb hole. In the case where the PSA is past the VAL, use the intersection of the pin to PSA line and the VAL as the P4 position to keep the balance hole flare safe.[/color]
- Taken from: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6086
"Flare management is mainly used to help determine the length on the lane of the first transition when it is used properly. That's about the jist of it."
- Some bowlers were saying that as long as flare rings were hitting a fresh surface, anything else was overkill. see viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6086
Mo's correction: "Stop using the distance between flare rings to measure flare! Try using the total distance that the precessing PAP moves in relation to the major and minor axis of the RG contour to accurately evaluate the amount of flare necessary for good ball motion. Now we're discussing reality, instead of just looking for things to talk about."
- How many degrees do you add to sums for low tilt & low rotation? Found in discussion:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=6158&view=unread#unread
10* for tilt and 5* for rotation are the approximate guidelines that I personally use.
The quote below is by Mathistruth. See the thread for discussion and explanation by Mo and others.
There are 3 phases of ball motion, the skid phase, then the hook phase and finally the roll phase. The first and second transitions is what we call the points which seperates these phases. The skid and roll phases are linear in nature which means linear equations can be used to model the ball motion. The hook phase is modeled by a quadratic equation. The vertex of that parabolic curve coincides with the breakpoint. It occurs somewhere between the first and second transition.
Here's the real answer about reverse oil. Reverse oil controls the amount of oil in the front part of the lane. Forward oil controls the shape of the pattern at the end of the pattern. The more reverse oil in relation to the forward oil, the longer the pattern last and the smaller the transitions. Read the pdf and find the corner of the red bar. Subtract 3 and that's where your breakpoint should be to start. Take the length of the pattern minus 31 rule and shove it. Not accurate. Do your homework!
- from discussion of a Double Thumb layout for low tilt/high rotation bowler:
viewtopic.php?t=354 (see #6)
The P3 hole will make the difference as opposed to the "Double Thumb" balance hole location.
The key factor is your 70* of axis rotation in conjunction with 7* of tilt. We're getting into PDW territory. The P3 hole will help control possible overreaction and make the ball more controllable, but still very strong.
Mo's answer to a request for a definition of a performance fit.
[color=#FFFF40]A performance fit is a fit adjusted off a good basic grip that changes the natural effect of each of the fingers and the thumb on the ball motion that results from the bowler's basic (Wiki) grip. The purpose of the performance fit is to adjust the axis tilt, axis rotation, and speed, or rev, dominance of the bowler's natural delivery in order to improve the effectiveness of the ball motion. Basically "training wheels".[/color]
[color=#FFFF00]No reason it shouldn't work! I set the 10* minimum drilling angle to make sure the migrating PAP had to cross the pin to PAP line. Just a safety feature.[/color]
[color=#FFFF00]I try to make sure the PAP of the migrating axis goes past the pin to PSA line. This helps the ball to rev up more easily on the back end of the lane[/color]
