Difference between revisions of "Sport Bowling Layouts"

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# The friction window to hit (red boxes), where your ball does not skid too far and/or hook too soon is much smaller on sport bowling conditions
 
# The friction window to hit (red boxes), where your ball does not skid too far and/or hook too soon is much smaller on sport bowling conditions
 
# Your available friction and non friction areas are much greater on THS, so you can adjust how much skid and hook you have just by moving your feet, this alone allows you to use tune your reaction as the night goes, with very little penalty for moving, if the ball skids when you miss in, you move right into more friction, or adjust your angle to the right for more friction, or both.
 
# Your available friction and non friction areas are much greater on THS, so you can adjust how much skid and hook you have just by moving your feet, this alone allows you to use tune your reaction as the night goes, with very little penalty for moving, if the ball skids when you miss in, you move right into more friction, or adjust your angle to the right for more friction, or both.
# Backends are double stripped on sport bowling conditions, where as on THS, they are likely not, to the difference in reaction between oil and dry is far greater.
+
# Backends are double stripped on sport bowling conditions, where as on THS, they are likely not, so the difference in reaction between oil and dry, on sport bowling conditions, is far greater.
  
 
As you can see with the diagram to the right, the blue line is a typical speed dominant bowler, purple is a matched bowler, and orange is a rev dominant bowler.<br />
 
As you can see with the diagram to the right, the blue line is a typical speed dominant bowler, purple is a matched bowler, and orange is a rev dominant bowler.<br />

Revision as of 07:43, 6 November 2013

Preface

First its important to understand the difference between Sport lane conditions and Typical House shot conditions.
Watch this video by Jason Doust to understand the difference.
I'd find it difficult to do a more thorough job than this video.


Strategy for Sport vs. THS

THS versus Sport

The main differences between THS and Sport are:

  1. The friction window to hit (red boxes), where your ball does not skid too far and/or hook too soon is much smaller on sport bowling conditions
  2. Your available friction and non friction areas are much greater on THS, so you can adjust how much skid and hook you have just by moving your feet, this alone allows you to use tune your reaction as the night goes, with very little penalty for moving, if the ball skids when you miss in, you move right into more friction, or adjust your angle to the right for more friction, or both.
  3. Backends are double stripped on sport bowling conditions, where as on THS, they are likely not, so the difference in reaction between oil and dry, on sport bowling conditions, is far greater.

As you can see with the diagram to the right, the blue line is a typical speed dominant bowler, purple is a matched bowler, and orange is a rev dominant bowler.
On the THS each bowler can exit the pattern at different spots and still get to the pocket, on sport, each bowler should be very close to where the ball exits the pattern in order to score, otherwise, right of that is too much oil to recover, and too far left is too much friction from the double stripped backends.

Sport bowling layouts are different in hook shape, as you see in the diagrams.
Sport bowling layouts are more effective on sport bowling conditions because they do not continue hooking very long after they exit the pattern, and they also to not change direction sharply.
Regardless of the type of bowler, most success comes from the ball exiting the pattern at the proper location and at the proper angle.

Layout Methods

2 schools of thought.

  1. On shorter patterns use more continuation to control friction. Sometimes you will see those with weaker shelled balls, like urethane on Cheetah, but sometimes wont carry well due to decreased entry angle or the ball still hooking when it hits the pocket (which deflects). On longer patterns use a sharp breakpoint to cover as many boards as quickly as possible.
  2. On shorter patterns use less continuation, burn tilt and rotation quickly and allow the ball to roll forward to control the transition between oil and friction. On long patterns get the tilt and rotation to burn faster, and wait for the pattern to open up before using balls that have a sharper breakpoint.

Number 2 is what we will be looking for, and I'll explain why. When you use school for thought number 1, you're likely to get into trouble with the ball hooking when it hits the pins as it wont have time to roll forward and carry will suffer. Also, when friction becomes more and more as the pattern breaks down, continuation balls will hook more rather than roll faster. Your angles will get deeper, quicker and your moves to compensate may occur too soon, and the friction window to hit, when playing deeper will be too small and slight misses will become more amplified down lane.

When using school of thought number 2, ball reaction is simplified and will use a 2 phase approach. Use hook-set balls when playing on the fresh, until the hook-set angle takes you away from the pocket and entry angle becomes flat. Then use slightly more continuous, or angular balls when the pattern breaks down and the pattern has more miss room.

How to layout for sport bowling

THS patterns use layouts to expose friction, increase entry angle, and allow the bowler to play as deep as they want or as comfortable as they want to be. Sport bowling layouts control the back part of the lane and read where the end of the pattern is, and where the friction spots are within the pattern. How do we do this?
We burn tilt and rotation faster, reduce the drill angle to read the pattern early, and increase the VAL angle to smooth out transition.

Example:

Median bowler

Matched Speed to Rev Rate
17 Degrees of tilt
70 Degress of rotation

Benchmark Asymmetric: 55 x 4 x 35
Benchmark Symmetric: 55 x 3.5 x 30

Short Sport

37 feet or less.
Applies to Cheetah and Viper

On this condition, I like to use Asymmetrics.
Why? Because I can control the drill angle easier, especially those with .018 intermediate differential or greater, because the PSA wont move much.
With symmetrics, you're guessing with holes, depth, on where the the PSA moves.
Target balls can be medium or aggressive covers, do not use weak covers with this layout, it will give artificial length.

The adjustment for the sport layout for the above bowler would be 30 x 4.5 x 60 on a decently strong asymmetrical ball with a medium cover, matte surface, NOT POLISHED!
We dont want length, we want to read the end of the pattern, hook some and roll forward.
Totals are still similar, but the shape of the hook will be less left to right hook and more front to back.

If you must to use a symmetrical ball, use one with a higher differential, and a medium cover.
This bowler would have something to the effect of 50 (Pin to CG drill angle wont matter much) x 3 x 55 and add a P3 hole at least 3" deep to get the ball to roll faster.

Medium Sport

38 to 41 feet
Applies to Chameleon and Scorpion

Symmetric or Asymmetric, this time, it can be a more mild asymmetric, somewhere in the .012 to .016 range on an asymmetric and .040 or greater on the symmetric, medium covers, matte.
Asymmetric: 35 x 5 x 50. Why? We're playing closer to the pocket to start on this pattern, we want the ball to roll forward more and faster.
Symmetric: 50 (Pin to CG drill angle wont matter much) x 2.75 x 45 + P3 at least 3" deep.

Long Sport

42 feet or more
Applies to Shark.

I like to use Asymmetrics only, because their potential response to friction is much faster.
I like to use a ball with a high intermediate differential, .018 or above and use a strong balance hole location like P4 to get the ball to hook early and roll fast but give entry angle, as you will likely start or end up playing left of the pocket.

Asymmetric, medium coverstock, skip a grit finish for traction and response to friction, think 800/4000.
Layout: 40 x 5 x 40 + P4 or P3. The strong balance hole will make up for the slight uptick in Drill Angle.

Notes

You will notice with this method, we keep the drill angle fairly similar between the layouts to read the pattern early.
The adjustments are mostly related to how much hook we want before the ball rolls forward.
Remember, balance holes, will cause the ball to roll forward faster, meaning shorten the hook zone.

Pin to PAP controls how fast the bowler's tilt and rotation will burn before rolling forward.
VAL angle controls how much hook will occur before the ball rolls forward due to the Pin to PAP distance.
Drill angle controls how quickly the ball starts hooking once it hits the end of the pattern, or it encounters friction.